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History:
Most of the buildings in the 9th arrondissement were built in
the 19th century under a grandiose redevelopment plan by Napoleon III. Most of them are
stone buildings, still in good shape and do not require demolition. The last big urban
development was the achievement of the Boulevard Haussmann in 1927. It seems it's a duty
now to maintain the architectural aspect of the 9th district so its history and its charm
may be kept. The Paris Urban Planning division require architects to preserve the old
facades or to renovate and rebuild in the same style as of the past century. The mixed use
of real estate in the 9th arrondissement goes back to 1823 when it represented the core of
Paris's domestic and international economic exchanges, at a time when banks and insurance
companies elected this district to become their headquarters.
Shopping:
Neighborhood markets: Fresh produce, greengrocers, fish and
meat markets, boulangeries, wine stores on rue Lepic.
Neighborhood supermarkets:
G20 on rue Lepic
ATAC on Boulevard des Batignolles, off Place Clichy.
MONOPRIX de la Place Blanche, food section in the basement.
Department Stores:
Just North of l'Opera, the #68, 81, 95 buses go to the Grands Boulevards where you will
find Les Galeries Lafayette and Le Printemps and the bus goes by the Palais-Royal, the
Louvre and the Musee d'Orsay via the Opera and the Bon Marche store.
The #74 bus goes to the department stores Samaritaine and Bazaar de l'Hotel
de Ville (BHV) along the quais. The BHV is across from Paris City Hall.
The #30 bus goes to the Arc de Triomphe through the Trocadero
The #95 goes to Tour Montparnasse.
Places of interest in the 9th & 18th arrondissements:
Musee Gustave Moreau (14 rue de La Rochefoucault, Me Trinite)
Musee de la Vie Romantique (16 rue Chaptal, Me St George, Blanche ou Place Pigalle)
Musee Jacquemart André (corner rue de Teheran & 158 blvd Haussmann)
Passage des Panoramas (at Blvd Montmartre and rue St Marc)
Nadia & Lili Boulanger Conservatory of Music & Dance (rue de Douai, across from
Lycée Jules Ferry)
Le Montmartre de Toulouse Lautrec (coffee shops and bistrots Le Chat Noir, Le Mirliton)
Musée Dali (11, rue Poulbot, Me Abbesses)
MusÈe de Montmartre ( 12, rue Cortot, Me Lamarck-Caulaincourt)
Montmartre Cemetery ( 20 Avenue Rachel, Me): Composers Hector Berlioz, Jacques Offenbach,
dancer Nijinsky, film maker Francois Truffaut and painter Degas are buried in the
Montmartre Cemetery. It may seem also hard to imagine DEGAS moved 8 times in his life
within a 10 block radius from his birth place. Degas spent the last 5 years of his life at
6 boulevard de
Clichy.
Musée de l'Opera (Pl. de l'Opéra)
Musée Grevin (10 blvd Montmartre)
Galeries "Arcades" Vivienne ( rue Vivienne et rue des Petits Champs, 2e arr.)
Green spaces:
There are 10 acres of green parks in the 9th arrondissement
of which, the parc d'Anvers, Montholon, Estienne d'Orves, Alex Biscarre and Square Berlioz (see below) were the main
ones; not to mention the gardens of the Museum of Romantic Life.
Edouard Vuillard, Place Vintimille, 1911,
five-panel screen, distemper on paper laid down on canvas, National Gallery of Art,
Washington. Place Vintimille was Place
Adolphe-Max, Square Berlioz 's old name. Vintimille came from a Napoleonic
battle.
See: http://www.nga.gov/feature/artnation/vuillard/index.htm
Place Vintimille, 1910-1912, photograph by Edouard Vuillard
Note: the apt. to rent is on 4th floor!
Churches:
Eglise de la Sainte Trinité: (3 rue de la Trinité)
Eglise Notre Dame de Lorette
Eglise St Eugène
Eglise Luthérienne de la Rédemption
Grand Synagogue de la rue de la Victoire
Other:
Paris website
ParisFashionable
Right Bank: Fashionable Parisians Doing the Right Thing
[SanFrancisco Chronicle January 28, 2001]
A
Shopper's Movable Feast: For Hungry Shoppers in Paris.
[NewYork
Times, Sunday January 28, 2001]
ParisFashionable Right Bank: Fashionable Parisians Doing the Right Thing
[SanFrancisco Chronicle January 28, 2001]
A Shopper's Movable Feast: For Hungry Shoppers in Paris.
[NewYork Times, Sunday January 28, 2001]
Good Eats/--Où dîner ce soir?
http://www.EatinParis.com (by district,
quite helpful)
http://www.Reservethebest.com (comme ci,
comme ça)
http://www.zagat.com (a well known quantity)
http://www.Bparis.com (for France fanatics)
http://www.patriciawells.com (too much
self-promoting)
Bibliography:
The Spirit of Montmartre: Cabarets, Humor and theAvant-Garde (1875-1905) by
Philipp Dennis Cate & Mary Shaw ( JaneVoohees, Zimmerli Art Museum Rutgers,
The State University New Brunswick, NewJersey, 1996).
http://www.thinker.org/legion/exhibitions/118/index.html
The Banquet Years: the origins of the Avant-Garde inFrance (1885 to World
War
I) by Roger Shattuck (Vintage Books, revisededition 1968).
Montmartre du Plaisir et du Crime par LouisChevalier (Editions Robert
Laffont, 1980).
Transforming Paris: the Life & Labors of BaronHaussmann by David. P.
Jordan,
University of Chicago Press, 1995.
The World of the Paris Café: Sociability among theFrench Working Class
1789-1914 by W. Scott Haine (John HopkinsUniversity Press, 1996).
Notre-Dame-de-PARIS (Ile de la Cite, bus #74) has free public
concerts on Sunday afternoons.
Art Auction Houses:
Hotel des Ventes Drouot ( 9, rue de Drouot, 9e, bus #74 on Place de Clichy drops you in
front at Drouot-Provence stop)
Sotheby's (76, rue du Fg St Honore, 8e)
Christie's (6, rue Paul Baudry, 8e)
Flea markets: between the Porte de Clignancourt & Porte St Ouen
Marche Biron or Vernaison are upscale antiques markets.
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